As I set out from Crosslake, Minnesota to Rhinelander, Wisconsin on May 5th, scattered white flakes swirled across the highway. That’s odd, I thought; it seems early for aspen seeds. But these were small, discrete flakes, not the unsightly clumps that I am accustomed to seeing aloft during May in the Upper Midwest. Moreover, these flakes occurred not in wooded areas but beside open fields along Highway 1 in Fifty Lakes, in downtown Emily, and just north of Aitken, at the turnoff for Highway 169. In a realization that only a southern Californian could call a discovery, I thought, “This is snow…. My God, I have come to the study area too early this year, and it is snowing!” Indeed, my sabbatical this spring had freed me to return and begin to study loons shortly after they themselves had returned from their northerly migration. And winter, it seemed, had not yet taken its final bow.
The blowing snow that danced in the breeze between my Minnesota and Wisconsin study areas reflected the kind of spring we have had here. We had felt the conditions keenly out on the Whitefish Chain in Minnesota on April 30, as we censused our banded loons from a pontoon boat. “North winds bring good weather, Terri,” I said at one point, mustering false cheer and a feeble smile. “Oh yeah?” she replied tartly. It was sunny, but 38 degrees. At 9:45 a.m., the blustery winds had not yet blown up whitecaps, but here, towards the southern end of Cross Lake, the wind had a three-mile fetch. Every gust chilled us to the bone.
The loons themselves bailed us out. The Cross-Echo Point pair foraged mostly apart but had no objection to our motoring slowly up to them. Evidently we were not the first pontoon boat they had seen. But writing down the bands was pure agony. I took off my ski gloves, snatched up the pencil, scrawled “W/S,V/V” and “Y/S,Ar/Y” for the affable pair — or at least, made markings that might have suggested that sequence of letters — and hurriedly put the gloves back on. Looking at the many unfilled boxes on the sheet where I should have recorded such crucial details as “Territory”, “Date”, and “On Lake Time”, I frowned and muttered to myself, “I will do those later”. The remaining loon pairs of Cross Lake — South of Happy, Happy Bay, Arrowhead, Twin Islands, Dam, and Moonlite Bay — were more than willing to show us their bands too, and the Rush Lake pairs that we watched afterwards were equally obliging. Still we found ourselves increasingly chilled as the morning wore on.
Our experience covering the loons in the Fifty Lakes region a few days later was worse. Richard and I awakened to wind advisories, which cast doubt upon the wisdom of hitting more big lakes. I looked at the map. “If the wind is from the northwest, we could try covering the territories that are protected” I offered. “East and West Fox might not be so bad”. We looked at each other, each of us sizing up the other’s commitment to the idea. “Well, let’s go to the boat landing; we should be able to tell from there if it’s okay to go out.” Richard replied.
The East Fox-South pair was 10 yards from the platform as we drove past the lake on Highway 1. “Oh, that looks easy!” I said to Richard as we slowed to observe them. Indeed, the pair was still in the area when we launched from the boat landing and eased up to them 12 minutes later. Seeing their bands as they dove and surfaced comfortably beside the boat was a simple matter. “Grrr, that’s the male we missed last July in the fog,” I said bitterly. “But they are both sweet birds.”
Our luck held as we motored up the lake. Though we were baffled by an unmarked intruder in the East Fox-Turtle Bay territory, we found the pair soon afterwards just south of their nest bay in the main lake. “Copper over……copper cream….no — copper over red-stripe on left”, I said loudly in hopes that I would remember and write it down correctly a minute later when I could whip off my gloves. “And silver over iceberg on right. Wow….beautiful! The mate is green over….. — no two greens — on left and uhhh……silver over copper on right. Perfect!” In fifteen more minutes, we had nailed bands on two additional pairs — East Fox-North and West Fox-Channel — and, though chilly, felt good about our accomplishment. “We’re slaying ’em, Richard!”, I announced. Characteristically laconic, he nodded, “Yep.”
The real challenge that day was the whitecaps we faced on Mitchell Lake a few hours later. Yet Richard deftly tracked the northern shoreline as we searched for the West pair, which we found and identified quickly. And we bumped into the East pair near the large island in the lake’s center. They too were tame enough to give up their band combinations without a lengthy tussle.
After our visit to Mitchell, we could look back and count ten loon territories where we had identified both pair members, despite very windy conditions. We had had a great day. But we had also been fortunate to encounter cooperative loons.
The weather was equally poor in Wisconsin, where I began my work on May 6th — by canoe. There too I found unseasonable cold and wind all day long. With 107 territorial pairs to visit — and no loon team on the ground during the summer to check and correct our sightings — we were behind the eight-ball to start with in the state. Yet Anna from the 2025 Loon Project team and Linda braved the unpleasant weather and whittled the lake list down considerably by visiting breeding pairs at the northern and southern ends of the study area, respectively. That left 70 or so lakes between Rhinelander and Minocqua for me.
I planned to knock out my Wisconsin lakes in a weeklong sprint. I knew that it was possible to cover as many as ten different lakes in a day by canoe. So I simply hoped to reach that number of lakes each day during a seven-day stretch. At first my luck held. Flush with excitement at seeing the loons I knew well in my traditional study area — dozens of which I had banded as chicks — I covered ten lakes on my first day out and eleven on my second, despite consistent high winds. On my third day, though, I began to lose momentum. Burrows Lake was the turning point.
Burrows is our most westerly lake — and isolated from our main cluster. I debated skipping it this year, considering the long drive and my limited time. But I decided I should try to confirm whether the long-time banded male on the lake had returned with his unbanded partner. “Just knock Burrows out and move on to lakes 9 and 10 ,” I told myself. It seemed simple enough.
When I finally pulled up to the Burrows lakeshore, I took one look at the angry whitecaps that battered the public dock at boat landing on the lake’s eastern end and my heart sank. Was it even safe to enter the lake in a canoe under these conditions? If so, how would I fight my way westwards — into the teeth of the wind — and find the pair at the west end, where they always stayed? But I considered the situation and devised a plan. I would paddle in a southwesterly direction, hugging the shore for safety. Once I reached the island near the lake’s south end, I would pull the canoe ashore, and use that vantage point — from which the whole lake was visible — to scan for the breeding pair. The plan was intensely annoying to a Canada Goose, which huffed loudly as it vacated its nest near my landing spot on the island, but it worked. I scanned the lake from the stable, high ground of the island and turned up the pair. They were foraging together just west of the bend in the V-shaped lake — 300 yards northwest of where I stood — but across a seething ocean.
To reach the Burrows pair from the island, I extended my earlier approach of creeping along the shoreline. This required paddling roughly half of the lake’s perimeter. I first backtracked eastwards to the boat landing, then paddled northwestwards until a bend in the lake forced me in a southwesterly direction. As I moved forward at an almost imperceptible pace, I happened to pass two older men standing by a lakeside home. I could neither read their lips nor hear their words in the gusty winds, but their bemused expressions betrayed their opinions of my seamanship and judgment.
And yet, I made progress. The northwestern shore of the eastern bay provided a valuable windbreak, once I reached it, and aided my journey. “I just might pull this off!” I told myself. Although the birds had long since disappeared from view and might have crossed the lake in the time it took me to reach them, I finally saw their two black heads — and got another taste of the wind — when I passed the south-facing point that splits the lake’s eastern and western halves. The pair had moved only a hundred yards west from where I had spotted them earlier and were now a mere two minutes of awkward paddling away.
After my Herculean effort to reach them, I might have hoped for mercy from the Burrows pair, but I received none. They were as recalcitrant as ever, staying 30 yards or more away as the shifting wind toyed with my boat. In the end, I had to settle for “partials”. The smaller, more skittish loon was unbanded, I was pretty sure, and the larger had a silver over a faded yellow and a clear bright white band on its left leg. That, I decided, was the best I could expect. All things considered, I was lucky to get it.
Once I had made the return trip to the boat landing, secured the canoe to my car, and settled back into the driver’s seat, I could reflect upon my experience on Burrows without wind howling in my ears. At that moment I realized the sheer absurdity of chasing loons in whitecaps. This was desperately difficult and hair-raising work. Although I had never been in any real danger because of my proximity to shore at all times, I felt somehow exposed by my Burrows odyssey. Suddenly the notion that one can simply plan to identify the bands of ten different loon pairs for many days in a row seemed like pie in the sky. A day when you cover ten territories by canoe is a very fortunate one, not an average one. Identifying ten different loon pairs on seven days in a row would have required extraordinary luck, highly cooperative birds, and — above all — excellent weather. And the weather had been consistently atrocious. The following days, it turned out, would be no better.
In the end, I settled for 66 territories covered, even after staying in Wisconsin for an eighth day. I had fallen short, but I had also censused more banded loons than ever before in such a brief period. As I drove back to Minnesota on innumerable small highways and felt my small car buffeted by the same crosswinds that had toyed with my canoe each day during my visit to Wisconsin, I made a decision. I would call the trip a win.
The loon in the photo is one I know well. He is “Silver over Copper Cream, Red over Red”, a male that has held the Alva Lake Territory in Wisconsin since 2013. I encountered him on May 10 — at about the halfway point of my recent Wisconsin trip. He and his mate, “White-blue over Silver, Yellow over Green”, had begun nesting a few days prior to my visit.
By the way, you can view the featured photo of the Alva male — rather than a placeholder photo — by clicking on the blog title (“A Windy, Wintry Start”) at the top of the page.











